Trad. & Multi-pitch

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Expo Carnaval 2009 (100m – 7a, 6a, 6c, 6a)

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A new route at Pinheirinhos’ Crag (Sector: Flanco Direito).

(more about this Crag at http://www.rppd.blogspot.com/)

Date: 22-02-2009 (14h- 19h)

by  Ricardo Belchior and João Gaspar

Style

Ultra clean first ascent (you only know we were there because we say so), onsight try. In the three pitchs we have used only 3 bolts that were already there (one for the 2nd belay point and two for the 3rd belay point).

– Info about this route

1st pitch (7a, 15m), Adagio

Starts overhanging (+/- 6m) and finishing with a less-than-vertical climb to the nearest hole where you can fit yourself into. There’s no fixed point to mount the belay station (use stoppers and friends).

Comments:

Hard from the begining and until you have both feet above the overhang! It is not a easy warm up! Very pumpy climbing! It’s harder than it looks from the ground and the placements were not bullet proof (but maybe you will find better ones)! Though I tried very hard, I couldn’t onsigh this pitch and Gaspar also couldn’t flash it.

Special Gear:

Mid and small sized friends and stoppers.

2nd pitch (6a, 30m), Allegro

Starts with you leaving the hole to the left crack (+/- 2m on the left of the belaying hole) and then, just follow that crack until you reach a big and very compact vertical wall. There’s a bolt there, and we have used it for our 2nd belay station.

Comments:

You will start climbing a vertical face but, after that, you will mostly find  less than vertical climbs in very compact and somewhat technical dark colored rock.

Special Gear:

A sling, mid to micro sized Stoppers and Friends

3nd pitch (6a, 35m), Vivace

The best pitch is this 3rd! We found it to be special because it traverses a very beautiful and compact vertical rock face that gives you the feeling of being high above ground and also because the gear placements are not wonderful and you will have to show some commitment.

Comments:

In our view, although 6c is not a high level grade, you shouldn’t try to lead this pitch if you are not very comfortable in this climbing level. Decisions have to be made and not all options will lead to healthy outcomes. If you leave the main line (diagonal crack) you will encounter very poor quality and loosely rocks!!

Special Gear:

Medium to micro sized friends and stoppers. It is good to go with 50m double roupes

4nd pitch (6a, 20m), Allegro cantabile

Just go up through the final pitch of “Elite do Medo” (its fully bolted you can relax).

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Here is the route profile:

expo-carnaval-20091

Photo: Paulo Roxo

Here are some photos taken just before I lost my ability to place anymore gear and Gaspar lost his to take photos…

pict00042

pict0007

Photos: João Gaspar

Climber: Ricardo Belchior (3rd pitch, 6c, successfuly onsighted)

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Let us know if you try it

Enjoy.

12 responses

26 02 2009
15 04 2009
How to Get Six Pack Fast

After reading through this article, I just feel that I need more info. Could you share some resources please?

15 04 2009
ricardofb

Be more specific, please!
What do you mean by other resources?

R.

24 09 2010
haron

Hy. i am planing to visit portugal next month and I am interested in climbing bolted and trad multipitch routes. Do you have some suggestions or maybe websites where can I found informations about routes and crags. also about local weather. I can see on picture above there are more than 20 routes. i would like to know more about them.
Please help

I came from croatia and I dont speek portugese so web sites only in portugese are only partly helpfull.

Thnx!

5 10 2010
ricardofb

Hi Haron,

The best thing would be to go to Boulder Area (in Odivelas – Lisbon) there you will find some portuguese climbers who can help you.
(Sorry by the inderect answer to your calls but I’m short in time)
Greetings
R.

19 12 2011
Nuno Pinheiro

Viva!
Fui lá com o Mário repetir o primeiro largo, a via é nice e a colocar os friends pareceu-nos mais de 7a.
Abraço,
Nuno.

19 12 2011
ricardofb

Boa! O terceiro tb vale a pena experimentar! É um pouco mais exposto, mas divertido!
Fizeram o FA ou deixaram para o próximo (como eu)?
Obrigado pelo feedback.
Abraço
R.

19 12 2011
Nuno Pinheiro

Fizemos o FA mas com os friends pre-colocados e juntamos o primeiro e o segundo largo. O terceiro largo fizemos uma via nova do Roxo que passa mesmo pelo meio da placa ou seja mesmo na vertical da reunião do segundo largo, que recomendo, uma das melhores dos Pinheirinhos e a melhor desta parede, tem 3 pernos mas mesmo assim tem um pouco de ambiente.
Abraço,
Nuno.

20 12 2011
ricardofb

Então não foi bem um “FA” foi mais um “fa”! LOL
Boa! E ficaria o quê? 7a+, 7b? O que propõens?
… uuuuuum, com pernes isso já é outro tipo de aventura… mas tenho a certeza que terá sido divertida! Na altura eu ainda considerei a hipótese de avançar por a li com friends (só a fazer de lastro), mas o Gaspar também faria parte do risco…

Continuação de boas trepas

Abraço e boas festas

R.

20 12 2011
Nuno Pinheiro

Não sei, como fizemos 7a pareceu-nos bem, quem fizer o FA logo dirá.
Bom Natal,
Nuno.

13 02 2012
Nuno Pinheiro

O Fran fez o “FA” à vista e pareceu-lhe 7a.

13 02 2012
ricardofb

Grato pela info.
Confirma-se então. 😉
Abraço
R.

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