Expo Carnaval 2009 (100m – 7a, 6a, 6c, 6a)
A new route at Pinheirinhos’ Crag (Sector: Flanco Direito).
(more about this Crag at http://www.rppd.blogspot.com/)
Date: 22-02-2009 (14h- 19h)
by Ricardo Belchior and João Gaspar
Ultra clean first ascent (you only know we were there because we say so), onsight try. In the three pitchs we have used only 3 bolts that were already there (one for the 2nd belay point and two for the 3rd belay point).
– Info about this route
1st pitch (7a, 15m), Adagio
Starts overhanging (+/- 6m) and finishing with a less-than-vertical climb to the nearest hole where you can fit yourself into. There’s no fixed point to mount the belay station (use stoppers and friends).
Hard from the begining and until you have both feet above the overhang! It is not a easy warm up! Very pumpy climbing! It’s harder than it looks from the ground and the placements were not bullet proof (but maybe you will find better ones)! Though I tried very hard, I couldn’t onsigh this pitch and Gaspar also couldn’t flash it.
Mid and small sized friends and stoppers.
2nd pitch (6a, 30m), Allegro
Starts with you leaving the hole to the left crack (+/- 2m on the left of the belaying hole) and then, just follow that crack until you reach a big and very compact vertical wall. There’s a bolt there, and we have used it for our 2nd belay station.
You will start climbing a vertical face but, after that, you will mostly find less than vertical climbs in very compact and somewhat technical dark colored rock.
A sling, mid to micro sized Stoppers and Friends
3nd pitch (6a, 35m), Vivace
The best pitch is this 3rd! We found it to be special because it traverses a very beautiful and compact vertical rock face that gives you the feeling of being high above ground and also because the gear placements are not wonderful and you will have to show some commitment.
In our view, although 6c is not a high level grade, you shouldn’t try to lead this pitch if you are not very comfortable in this climbing level. Decisions have to be made and not all options will lead to healthy outcomes. If you leave the main line (diagonal crack) you will encounter very poor quality and loosely rocks!!
Medium to micro sized friends and stoppers. It is good to go with 50m double roupes
4nd pitch (6a, 20m), Allegro cantabile
Just go up through the final pitch of “Elite do Medo” (its fully bolted you can relax).
Here is the route profile:
Photo: Paulo Roxo
Here are some photos taken just before I lost my ability to place anymore gear and Gaspar lost his to take photos…
Photos: João Gaspar
Climber: Ricardo Belchior (3rd pitch, 6c, successfuly onsighted)
Let us know if you try it