Having or not having an ultimate style in Sport Climbing

26 04 2011

What is the most difficult style in which you can climb a sport climbing route?

Onsight? A true onsight? Or onsigh without any chalk, any form of beta and carrying your own quickdraws?

What is the best performance a gymnast can have?

A score of ten? A true ten? Or a score of ten, with the legs absolutely straight and with absolute simetry?

As you, by now, are already guessing, my view on this subject is that: when you speak about a onsight, I think you did it perfectly! So, you don’t have to add any info more, you’ve mastered the route in its most difficult style!

If you didn’t, that’s an all different subject! If you want me to judge your performance (and you probably want – if you tell me), I want to know everything else that made it easier!

The chalk on the route is something that can usually be guessed, if you add the location of the route (in Rodellar, Ceüse, etc. – I’m guessing a lot) but, any other form of help/beta, e.g.:

– “look well”;

-“pay attencion”;

-“think it through”;

-“the route is good for you…”;

-taking a look from the route on the side;

-seeing a movie about the route;

-reading an extra detailed guide about the route;

-asking your friend to put chalk and/or the quickdraws on the route;

-belaying a friend on the route, etc, etc, etc.);

… as I see it,  you have to tell me! My point is not “was it, or was it not, a onsight?”, my point is I want to be sure I have all the information about what and how it happen, to make my judgement about your performance. We should all have this convention to express ourselves and our deeds clearly and to emphasize the greatness of onsights.

It’s not just a question of the glass of water being half-full or half-empty (i.e. a true onsight or a onsight but with this and that help), it’s rather a question of wanting to be able to communicate, truthfully and clearly, the climbing’s perfect 10 or not!

Many happy onsights for everyone

Cheers

R.

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26 04 2011

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