Why and how to work a project?

28 05 2008








Photo: João Gomes

The Why

The route exercises some kind of attraction over you. This usually can be easily diagnosed if every time the climber passes under the route he cannot stop taking a glimpse at it or, in more advanced cases, he cannot help himself from touching it’s first holds.  

But attraction will just count for the first approach! Beside the first attraction there has to be love, that is, you have to love doing every move. If not, you will probably won’t stay with “her” long enough to call it a project.

You probably are not a very strong climber! Otherwise, you would never have a project, because you will always do your routes in a day. 🙂

Also, you probably don’t like climbing onsight or, more generally, you don’t like to climb different routes, or, even more generally, you don’t like to climb, since you will spend so much time doing the same exercise. And though after sending your project you will be better in the eyes of others, the most probable truth is that you didn’t became a better climber after doing it, and rather just a better performer on that route!

Other possibilities, if everything else failed to apply, are that you work routes just because you have a limited “playground” or that you have a lot of free time and have difficulties to spend it without spending too much money or doing unhealthy things.


Contractually enforce someone to belay you every time you fill like doing your project (write everything, but leave some things written in smaller case)! It is not easy to convince belayers who do not share the same love for the chosen route… (you can always try to fall in love with routes with good views or near other more popular attractions)

Respect your belayer (even if you have the law on your side – due to the signed contact) 30 to 40 minutes for the first try will be more than enough to have the belayer tired (and looking up for his lawyer phone number)

Be patience and climb just while it’s fun. It is usually fun until you feel there is no evolution. If you come to a stall, take some time out, go to the climbing gym, and come back just when you miss her “again”.

If you want to be a better climber the best thing will be not to train specifically for the project (when you go there you are already doing that), if the objective is just to send your project, than do it, I’m sure it will be faster!

Finally, the most important thing, when you work a route, is to be (mentally) strong enough to be defeated some many times just for the pleasure of beating yourself once!

Thoughts writen after doing my longest project to date: Racha 8b 😉



2 responses

31 05 2008

what´s the next project?

2 06 2008

…for now just to do easier stuff and, maybe, start looking for the next year’s project.

Now, the real project, is to became stronger than I was in our last year’s summer vacations! 😛

Greetings Titan


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: