Warning: This is not a scientific paper, it is just my view on this subject. It would be nice to have your comments, especially if you disagree, so that the reader can have more info to make better decisions. This topic is based on my own experience after having a 2 month warning that I would be one of the competitors to represent the national team in the sport climbing world championship.
What to do when you want to be at your best and you can’t quit work and all the other daily things… My though was, if I want to deserve to represent the national climbers I have to train the best I know and can during this time!
What makes a good climbing fitness?
R: Maximize the relation between strength/resistance and your body weight! Thus, be stronger and reach your ideal body weight!
What is the ideal body weight?
R: Ahahahah… sorry have no idea! J But “no idea” doesn’t look as a good thought… So I gave my best shot and went to the www.8a.nu database and found what the average relation between height and weight was for the best climbers.
From the first 200 best all time, all around climbers (boulder + lead) I could find 32 that had given their weight and height info. From this data I draw this scatter chart where I added then a linear trend line (that works like a linear regression) which gives a visual average weight for every height between 156cm to 186cm.
So after getting an idea of how light you should be, it’s “just” a matter of power!
How to gain the extra power you need?
No secret formula here! Yep, no pills or electric shocks here. I’ll just give you some lights on how to train more.
Good morning – Weight lifting
Workout your shoulders, biceps, triceps and back. Every day, in the morning, (alternating between strength and resistance)
– “Strength Day”, maximum weight to be able to do:
5/6 repetitions, 4# series, 3/5 minutes of rest between series;
– “Resistance Day”, weight to be able to do:
15/50 repetitions, 4# series, 3/5 minutes of rest between series;
Good evening – Climbing Gym
Example of how to “work” all week:
– Monday: Boulder hard (1 to 6 moves)
– Tuesday: Long Resistance (40 to 70 moves)
– Wednesday: Active Rest – relaxed “walk” along a slightly overhanging wall (listening to your mp3) finishing before you get pumped and taking long rests in between (+/- 15m). If you can, do 45m to 1h of bicycle or running to finish the day.
– Thursday: Boulder hard (1 to 6 moves)
– Friday: Long Resistance (40 to 70 moves)
– Saturday: Rest (if you can’t do 35m to 45h of bicycle or running)
-Sunday: Go for a climb outside!
Good night – Rest! … there’s more tomorrow!
To finish, just keep in mind that you need to stretch after your workouts, and that you have to be mentally strong (motivated) to support this training load and even more (intelligent) to change it before getting injured. Learn to listen to your body!