What to do to be in shape in 2 months?

1 10 2007

Warning: This is not a scientific paper, it is just my view on this subject. It would be nice to have your comments, especially if you disagree, so that the reader can have more info to make better decisions. This topic is based on my own experience after having a 2 month warning that I would be one of the competitors to represent the national team in the sport climbing world championship.

What to do when you want to be at your best and you can’t quit work and all the other daily things… My though was, if I want to deserve to represent the national climbers I have to train the best I know and can during this time!

What makes a good climbing fitness?  



R: Maximize the relation between strength/resistance and your body weight! Thus, be stronger and reach your ideal body weight!

First part 

What is the ideal body weight? 

R: Ahahahah… sorry have no idea! J But “no idea” doesn’t look as a good thought… So I gave my best shot and went to the www.8a.nu database and found what the average relation between height and weight was for the best climbers.

From the first 200 best all time, all around climbers (boulder + lead) I could find 32 that had given their weight and height info. From this data I draw this scatter chart where I added then a linear trend line (that works like a linear regression) which gives a visual average weight for every height between 156cm to 186cm.



So after getting an idea of how light you should be, it’s “just” a matter of power!


Second part  


How to gain the extra power you need? 


No secret formula here! Yep, no pills or electric shocks here. I’ll just give you some lights on how to train more.

 Good morning – Weight lifting 

Workout your shoulders, biceps, triceps and back. Every day, in the morning, (alternating between strength and resistance)

– “Strength Day”, maximum weight to be able to do:

    5/6 repetitions, 4# series, 3/5 minutes of rest between series;


– “Resistance Day”, weight to be able to do:


    15/50 repetitions, 4# series, 3/5 minutes of rest between series;

  Good evening – Climbing Gym 

Example of how to “work” all week:

– Monday: Boulder hard (1 to 6 moves)

– Tuesday: Long Resistance (40 to 70 moves)

– Wednesday: Active Rest – relaxed “walk” along a slightly overhanging wall (listening to your mp3) finishing before you get pumped and taking long rests in between (+/- 15m). If you can, do 45m to 1h of bicycle or running to finish the day.

– Thursday: Boulder hard (1 to 6 moves)


– Friday: Long Resistance (40 to 70 moves)


– Saturday: Rest (if you can’t do 35m to 45h of bicycle or running)


-Sunday: Go for a climb outside!

 Good night – Rest! … there’s more tomorrow! 

To finish, just keep in mind that you need to stretch after your workouts, and that you have to be mentally strong (motivated) to support this training load and even more (intelligent) to change it before getting injured. Learn to listen to your body!




2 responses

13 11 2007
Ian Mulvany

Your graph is nice, but I think that the curve fit is probably slightly wrong.

You are making a linear regression, hence assuming that weight (W) is directly proportional to height (H).

It seems to me that since Mass is a a function of the volume of a body, and volume is a function of the cube of the liner dimension of the body, or H^3, then taller people will be proportionally heavier than shorter people.

Of course with our geometry I imagine that W is not proportional to H^3. but we could model a human as a tapered cylinder, or indeed two cones stacked on top of each other, and then you come out with something between

W = f(r^2*H/2) and r^2*h where r=f(H/5),

– Ian

13 11 2007

Thank you very much for your comment I always enjoy to learn! 🙂
If I had more data I would probably ask you for help to improve my analysis! As it is a very superficial analysis, and every point (weight/height) is there, the reader can always see if the linear regression is a good or bad representation of his/her “optimal” height.

Nevertheless, someone really interested in this subject hopefully will read your comment and learn a little bit more!



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