World Championship 2007 – Avilés

26 09 2007

After my first time competing in a Sport Climbing World Championship the first thing that comes to my mind is I WANT TO BE BETTER! Not “just” better ranked… a better climber! Thought I have always preferred rock climbing, climbing competitions in such nice walls and such quality routes (designed by François Legrand and Patxi Arocena) are just to fun to ignore!

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 Men’s Final 8c, +30m – Lead

The men’s final was just brilliant! How to do a 30 meters route enjoyable for the audience to watch? It’s easy! Hard resistance with no real rests! Result: Fast Climbing with almost no one falling on the same place. Congratulations to the winner Ramon Julia who is currently a real climbing machine.

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Me on the first route 8a+ of the qualifying round!

I had to settle with trying the 2 routes of the qualifying round… 8a+ they said, I say: hard climbing on small holds! Being 2 weeks at Rodellar contrarily to what I though didn’t really help to climb these 2 routes. The main differences are that in Rodellar there is always one hold to rest and mainly you climb with open hands, in Avilés the size of the holds was from small to very small and every move would get me closer to exhaustion! In the first route the route setters got me in the middle, and in the second route in the 2/3 barrier. 

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Opposite to my expectations Speed and Lead were the most crowded finals with a full stadium watching the climbing masters.

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Muriel Sarkany onsighting the Women’s final in great style.

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Angela Eiter master in small holds and not less when it comes to roofs handling or better said roofs hanging! To memories from this little girl: In the isolation room I remember the impressive power that this girl has in small holds (there was a warm-up boulder that she did that had a hold that I think I could grab… and there she joined both hands!!); In the super final I remember when things started to get rough (small) she smiled! Congratulation Angela, you are a real pleasure to watch.

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Boulder competion! Pretty cool to watch, but I think that the route setters weren’t here has good has they were in the Lead competition! I though the boulders favored the taller guys without other options to the smaller competitors. Beside that the last competitors got the sloppers in much worst conditions than the firsts! Yet another though on this competition is that it is not really fare to rank a single list when there were 2 groups of people that competed on different routes or boulders. I though this was specially unfair in the boulder competition! Nevertheless an enjoyable show with lots of strength and flexibility on these puzzling boulders!

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Dani Andrada starting to feel that he wouldn’t do enough to pass the qualifying round! What was he thinking? Sitting on this chair I though: I have to train harder, but I doubt that he felt the same…

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 José Abreu – 2nd boulder of the qualifying round 

I like boulders that look like puzzles. Boulders that are problems, where pure strength doesn’t decide! Daniel Woods (8c boulder guy) didn’t do this boulder! I did it at my first try :-)))).

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 The 3 hands Croatian climber! Greetings to the friendly Croatian team.

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Excuse me Sir would you be so kind as to unleash me from this rope… 🙂 

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In a competition lunch break some argentine climbers were showing their skills.

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– Magnum could you please hang there? – I want to take a picture of a Portuguese climber trying that boulder… Please look mad! At that time on my small LCD screen it looked pretty nice, now I see he had his sandals! Thanks Magnum, nice effort anyway.

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 Rute, José (coach), Marisa, Silvio, Fred and me. Gracias Avilés, hasta luego.

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